The Train to SaPa

We have met the enemy and it is called the Victoria Express train. It’s after the fact by a couple of days now and the vivid memories are fading, but I can’t miss the opportunity to tell you about the overnight train from Hanoi to SaPa. In retrospect, it doesn’t seem so bad, but at the time it was something to be dreaded and endured and definitely not savored. To drive by car to SaPa from Hanoi takes about twelve hours over some bumpy terrain, too much wasted time, so everyone takes this train which leaves around ten and arrives at six in the morning. It had been described as an Asian Orient Express, provided you travel in the “soft sleeper” car and not in the hard seat or hard sleeper cars. Only those staying at the Victoria Hotel in Sapa are permitted to buy tickets on the first class soft sleeper so the aura of mystery is enhanced and the air of exclusivity preserved.

At first, when we were planning the trip, there were no separate cabins available and the four of us had agreed to stay in one cabin for four, but after a little internet research I determined that was not in our best interests and so we prevailed upon our agent to apply a little pressure and sure enough we were able to reserve two cabins in the “deluxe” car. Thank you, Lord, for the alternative would not have been possible.

Thien picked us up at 9:00 PM and we were whisked to the nearby train station where we had to schlep over several sets of tracks and down long expanses of station before arriving at our car. Luckily we had stored our major luggage at the Metropole and only had carry-ons. Thien accompanied us to our cabins and then took his leave. I think he slept in the fourth class car, i.e., sitting up on hard wooden seats, so by comparison we were in the lap of luxury.

Let me describe the lap of luxury. Two narrow bunks on either side of a small cabin with pillow and blanket on each. The cleanliness of the bedding was questionable but I must admit it didn’t smell so they must wash it between passengers. In between the bunks was a small table with trash bin and a vase of fresh roses (a little perfume on the pig?), and no place to sit up for reading or writing. Community toilet and sink at both ends of the car, basic but usable. No putting on jammies or brushing teeth—too difficult. For Tom and I the bunks were barely long enough, but poor Neil was literally squished into the space with no wiggle room. Sometimes there are advantages to being short.

So we went to bed. Now let me preface the next part by saying I’ve only been on a sleeper car once or maybe twice in my life and I remember being lulled off to sleep by the gentle movement of the train and the soft drone of the engines. Not so the Victoria Express. Promptly at 10 we lurched out of the station and within five minutes the banging started. All night with only intermittent breaks it sounded like a machine gun volley or perhaps like the grand finale of the July fourth fireworks display at Beaver Creek. We still have no idea what it was but it continued unabatedly all night, sometimes with loud pops and sometimes just a continuous staccato. And the lurching didn’t stop either. For an “express” train it sure made a lot of stops along the way, with each start-up practically hurling me to the floor. So much for gentle movement. Of course Tom, as always, slept through the whole thing.

So it was that bleary-eyed and groggy we pulled into Lao Cai station and began the hour’s drive to Sa Pa and the rest of our stay there was glorious.

But alas, it was necessary to return to Hanoi and repeat the whole experience. I guess better the devil you know holds true here because somehow the return trip wasn’t as bad. The banging continued but maybe I had acclimated because I actually slept a little bit. We arrived in Hanoi at five A.M. and with early check-in we were back in our rooms by six, the train having been survived if not enjoyed.

But enough of this whining. We are such spoiled brats. In retrospect, I wouldn’t have missed it for the world.